Fall 2009

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ISU Raises a Glass to a Growing Iowa Industry

Bob and Sharman Wersen, owners of Tassel Ridge Winery, call on ISU Extension's Murli Dharmadhikari for answers to help their three-year-old business. The trio is shown in the winery's tasting room, which opened more than three years ago.

In 2000, Iowa had 12 wineries. In 2009, that number stood at 75.

Murli Dharmadhikari is playing a key role in this expanding industry as ISU Extension's enologist. He's studied enology, the science of winemaking, since he came to the United States from India in 1968. He earned a doctorate in grape nutrition from Ohio State, worked at a grape juice processing plant, helped establish new wineries and started a wine advisory service.

When the position was created at Iowa State in 2005, he was ready. "Since Iowa is a prime agricultural state, I thought it was a place I could have the most impact," says Dharmadhikari.

Iowa State established its Midwest Grape and Wine Industry Institute in 2006. The institute, in the College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, focuses on research, teaching and outreach to support the industry. Dharmadhikari is the institute's director.

One of the Iowa wineries Dharmadhikari works closely with is Tassel Ridge near Leighton. Bob and Sharman Wersen, who are native Californians, started the venture in 2001. Bob is the president of Interpower Corporation, a company he founded in California in 1975 and moved to Iowa in 1993.

"We saw an opportunity here," Bob says. "Iowans don't drink much wine, but education and the availability of good, locally produced wine can change that. Forty years ago, California wasn't a land of wine drinkers either."

The Wersens planted 57 acres of vineyards. A new building houses their wine production, storage, tasting and marketing. It opened in May 2006, and averages 40 visitors daily. Tassel Ridge won 15 medals in the 2009 Mid-American Wine Competition, and boasts more than 150 awards in wine competitions.

Three of Tassel Ridge's 20 employees are Iowa State graduates: Rhonda Taylor ('94 biology), winemaker; Jim Carmichael ('86 animal science), cellar technician; and Jonita Boyer ('94 agricultural education), cellar assistant.

"We're pioneers, working with local grape varieties, Iowa soils and microclimates, figuring out the best cultural practices in the vineyard, and the best production practices in the wine cellar," Wersen says.

When Wersen has questions, he calls Dharmadhikari.

"Tassel Ridge is one of the modern, well-equipped wineries in the state," Dharmadhikari says. "They have a real vision. We don't want to do anything without industry support, so this joint relationship is great."

The Wersens both serve on the institute's advisory board. Sharman Wersen also was appointed to the Iowa Grape and Wine Development Commission in 2008, and now serves as the group's chair. The commission makes recommendations to the Iowa Department of Agriculture and Land Stewardship on how to spend state funds to enhance Iowa's grape and wine industry.

Iowa wineries can submit wine samples to a diagnostic lab at Iowa State for analysis. The institute offers educational workshops and short courses, and has worked with industry to develop quality standards. Iowa State scientists conduct harvest fruit analysis and evaluate cold-hardy grape cultivars.

Dharmadhikari sees new wine offerings on the horizon as new grape varieties are grown and processed in Iowa.

Bob Wersen agrees. "We're going to see a shift from sweet wines to drier wines," he says. "As the industry evolves, wine drinkers will want to keep trying Iowa wines."

STORIES online extras:

• Midwest Grape and Wine Industry Institute
• Tassel Ridge Winery